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 More questions about motorhomes 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2014 10:31 am
Posts: 67
Location: Ligonier, PA
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Hello all - still looking for a motorhome so I can hang out at the track with all of the cool people. I've been looking at a few and am pretty sure I need to go with a class A or a "SuperC" to get the hitch capacity I need. (20ft enclosed trailer - 7500#) My questions are now more specific:

!) Are there restrictions regarding size or weight at any of the tracks?

2) Are there convenience factors around length, weight or features of which I should be aware?

3) Any clear benefit of a Class A over Class C? Diesel vs gas?

4) Should I do this, or just keep staying at the Springhill Suites?

Any advice or other words of wisdom would be very helpful and very much appreciated!
Thanks!

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Joe Teplitz - Western PA
Datsun 510


Tue Jul 26, 2016 11:25 am
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Joined: Wed Dec 25, 2013 10:42 am
Posts: 253
Location: Mebane, NC
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Will you be at Palmer this weekend? If so, stop by and we'll show you our class C motorhome. (MGA #61)

I haven't seen weight restrictions at the few tracks I have been to. Most tracks can accommodate huge rigs (18 wheelers).

Many new motorhomes have slideouts which give extra room inside but they might have a higher maintenance need. Also check how accessible the interior is with the slides retracted.

Class A motorhomes are often built a little better. We opted for the Class C because it has a bunk over the cab for our grandkids. They can go to bed while the adults continue to use the rest of the space - no need to break down the table for sleeping.

Diesel vs gas is tough one. I rarely see a Class C diesel. Many Class A's are diesel. We get ~10 mpg with our motorhome (gas V-10). Before we bought the motorhome we had a truck camper on my F250 diesel. I'd get 17-19 mpg (6 sp manual trans). Our son-in-law has an Expedition with the same engine but auto trans and he gets ~ 12mpg. I doubt there are any motorhomes with manual transmissions so the fuel savings may not make up for the higher cost for a gallon of diesel.

Assuming you are buying used, be sure to check for water leaks. Some say it is not if they leak but when.

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Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

1961 MGA, 1981 Alfa Romeo GTV6, 1984 Alfa Romeo Spider,
1991 Honda ST1100, 1999 Ford F250, 2006 Toyota Solara


Tue Jul 26, 2016 2:28 pm
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2014 10:31 am
Posts: 67
Location: Ligonier, PA
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Thanks for the info, Eric - unfortunately I just had to cancel for Whiskey Hill. Our house sold and I have to frantically pack.

I'll catch up with you at the next race.
Joe

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Joe Teplitz - Western PA
Datsun 510


Wed Jul 27, 2016 9:08 am
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Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 12:05 pm
Posts: 269
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Joe:

My motorhome (which you have seen) is a 25 ft. Class C on a Ford E450 cutaway chassis with the 6.0 Turbo diesel engine. I had a previous 26 ft. Class C motorhome with the Triton V-10. I do prefer the diesel for the torque and better fuel mileage and now the that the price of diesel fuel has gone back to a reasonable price/gallon operational costs are more reasonable. If you are only getting a motorhome for racing I would consider getting a trailer with living quarters and here is why:
1. Once you are at the track you are stuck there. If you want to go into town to a restaurant or need to get a part from NAPA you have to get a ride from a friend, not that that is difficult with friendly VRG members. 2. All of the "stuff" in a motorhome weighs a lot and it goes into the equation of your GVWR; the more your coach weighs the less you can tow. Right now I am at my GVWR limit. It is really easy to keep adding "stuff" to the coach and your race trailer until one day you realize that you have exceeded the limit. It's a good idea to weight your rig (tow vehicle and trailer) from time to time just to make sure. This is very easy to do at the CAT truck scales that are easy to find along interstate routes.

Now if you plan to use the MH by itself for travel with your family then that is a different story and the MH makes more sense.

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Mack


Sun Jul 31, 2016 6:14 pm
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Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2015 11:47 am
Posts: 8
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We tried a different approach as Mack had mentioned. We have a Ram 3500 4 door diesel 8' bed pick-em-up truck. We tow a 34' toy hauler. Our model has an open floor plan, no wall between the garage and the camper. Garage is 15' long, trailer load capacity is around 3500 lbs. We tow a TR4, about 2000 lbs. With the car inside we still have access to the kitchen, bathroom and bedroom. With the car out a couch folds out from the drivers side wall, and a dinette folds out from the pass. side wall, the twin queen bunk bed come down from the ceiling. It even has a screen room that goes on the ramp after the car is out. It does take a long ramp to get the car in and out. At the track it is very easy to disconnect the truck for local transportation.
We spent a month in it in Florida in March, with company for a week. Used the 4 door truck to pick them up at the airport.
I can send you a few pictures of the rig if you think you might be interested in the setup.
Carl Stenquist


Wed Aug 03, 2016 2:50 pm
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2014 10:31 am
Posts: 67
Location: Ligonier, PA
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Thank you both, Mack and Carl! I've seen your combination, Mack and I like the size of the motorhome.

Carl, if you have some photos, I'd love to see them. That sounds like a great option.

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Joe Teplitz - Western PA
Datsun 510


Thu Aug 04, 2016 9:40 am
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Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2015 11:47 am
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It is tough when you are as computer challenged as I am.
Took the pictures with a tablet and could not figure out how to get them onto an SD card.
Now to see how to get them from the SD card to this message.


Attachments:
File comment: The table at the dinette is folded up and in the bedroom for transport. The upper bunk can be lowered when needed for more guests.
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Sat Aug 06, 2016 4:50 pm
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Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2015 11:47 am
Posts: 8
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This is the view with or without the car. kitchen and bedroom are still available. The bathroom is in the bedroom.


Attachments:
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Sat Aug 06, 2016 4:55 pm
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