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 Cool Shirt Questions 
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Joined: Wed Dec 25, 2013 10:42 am
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Location: Mebane, NC
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So, I bought the ready-made Cool Shirt (~ $116 at Amazon or Summit Racing) and made my own pump system. The tally for the parts (cooler, bilge pump, dry break fittings, hose, etc) was about $150 (vs $250 - $350 for ready-made pump systems).

It works great!


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Cool Shirt 02.jpg
Cool Shirt 02.jpg [ 70 KiB | Viewed 11068 times ]
File comment: installed in MGA
Cool Shirt 01.jpg
Cool Shirt 01.jpg [ 65.48 KiB | Viewed 11068 times ]

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Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

1961 MGA, 1981 Alfa Romeo GTV6, 1984 Alfa Romeo Spider,
1991 Honda ST1100, 1999 Ford F250, 2006 Toyota Solara
Tue Aug 04, 2015 5:57 pm
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Joined: Sat Dec 14, 2013 11:13 am
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Location: Pittsburgh, Pa
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Nice Eric!

Will have to add this to the winter DIY projects list. After two more hot PVGP weekends, we all agreed having a cool shirt was a necessity. Race cars in the middle of July, hot? :lol:

Thanks for the heads up!

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Ian
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Wed Aug 05, 2015 12:58 pm
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This will probably mean it'll snow in August at Palmer, MA...

If anyone would like my parts lists/sources and construction notes let know. Assembly time is about 1-2 hours.

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Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

1961 MGA, 1981 Alfa Romeo GTV6, 1984 Alfa Romeo Spider,
1991 Honda ST1100, 1999 Ford F250, 2006 Toyota Solara


Wed Aug 05, 2015 6:52 pm
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Eric Russell wrote:
This will probably mean it'll snow in August at Palmer, MA...

If anyone would like my parts lists/sources and construction notes let know. Assembly time is about 1-2 hours.


If you wouldn't mind sharing Eric, I'm sure others would like to take a crack at it. I certainly would!

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Ian
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Thu Aug 06, 2015 11:52 am
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I started by studying instructions I found on the web.

http://www.ghidinelli.com/2011/02/28/di ... irt-system
&
http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index ... 243.0.html
&
http://www.tomhampton.info/2011/07/cool-suit/

The best price I found for the cooler was from Austin Kayak (Engel 13 Quart Dry Box Cooler UC 13). There are less expensive coolers but this one has latches & a seal around the lid. Hint: go to their website and sign up for their email newsletter to get a 15% discount (and they do not charge extra for shipping - at least to the USA).

If space is at an absolute premium I have seen them made with round coolers. Or you can put it in the trunk and add a couple of additional panel mount connectors to run the hoses through the rear firewall.

I bought a Rule 500 GPH 12V bilge pump from Amazon. They are also available at WalMart but it was actually a little cheaper on Amazon!

Here's my list of parts I bought from McMaster-Carr. Put the part number in the search box and it should go right to the appropriate page.

Line ....... Product Ordered ............................ Qty ............ Price

1 ....... 5012K118 disconnects ...................... 2 sets ............ 18.78 per set
2 ....... 5012K115 disconnects ...................... 2 sets ............ 17.84 per set
3 ....... 4463K121 Pipe Insulation, 6' Length ... 2 each ............ 2.37 each
4 ....... 8671T23 Through-Wall Fitting ............ 2 each ............ 9.52 each
5 ....... 5047K37 Tube Fitting ....................... 1 each ............. 2.06 each
6 ....... 5047K18 Tube Fitting ....................... 1 each ............. 2.10 each

I already had 12' of 1/4" ID X 3/8 OD vinyl tubing (Lowes or Home Depot) and a few bits of hardware (SS screws, silicone adhesive caulk, zip ties, etc).

The 'Through-Wall Fittings (#4 above) go through 5/8" dia holes I drilled in the cooler. I smeared silicone caulk in the hole and around the fitting. I scavenged a small vinyl coated wire rack from a kitchen cabinet and bent it to fit over the bilge pump so that when I use blocks of ice (lasts longer than cubes) the ice blocks won't smash into the pump. I secured it in position with two small nylon P-clips & short SS self-tapping screws.

The bilge pump is intended to use a 3/4" ID hose. Instead I tapped the pump outlet's ID 3/8" NPT. The 3/8" male pipe to 3/8" tube fitting (#6) then screws into the bilge pump. The 1/4" male pipe to 3/8" tube 90 degree fitting screws into the inside of one the through-wall fitting. A short length of 3/8" ID hose connect the two. The 1/4" NPT quick-disconnects screw into the outside of the through-wall fittings. The 1/4" tube quick disconnects go in the 1/4" tubing. I replaced the fittings that came in the Cool Shirt with the other half of the disconnects from McMaster-Carr.

If you want to be able to use the pump to drain the cooler, get an extra quick-disconnect and some tubing you can run outside the car. Plug it into the outlet, turn on the pump and it will pump down to 1/4" - 1/2". I didn't do that - I'll just take it out and dump it.

You will need to decide how to wire it into your car. I used an SAE connector (a 2 wire connector - wire it so the hot wire is the covered part). I used the windshield wiper switch and tapped into an always-hot circuit on my fuse box. This way I can keep the pump running with the ignition off while waiting on the false grid.

You will also need to decide how to mount it securely in the car. I made a bracket that I attached to the toe board that catches a slot on the underside of the cooler and added a strap to hold it down. The cooler ends up wedged between an Accusump on the passenger floorboard and the frame rail so it can't move left/right, fore/aft or up/down.

It is advised to add some "Cool Shirt Maintenance Additive" during use. I believe this is an algecide to keep the small tubes in the shirt from getting clogged. It is available from Summit Racing & other suppliers for ~ $10/qt. An alternative might be to get some extra disconnects and figure out a way to (gently) blow out all the water after use/before storage.

One upgrade I may try is to get a set of 'pull apart' dry breaks. Instead of needing to push a latch to disconnect, one simply pulls them apart. This sounds like A Good Idea if one needed to exit the race car quickly. See: Break-Away Fittings.


Attachments:
File comment: End view - disconnect fittings and hold-down strap shown.
Cool Shirt 03.jpg
Cool Shirt 03.jpg [ 54.16 KiB | Viewed 11057 times ]

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Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

1961 MGA, 1981 Alfa Romeo GTV6, 1984 Alfa Romeo Spider,
1991 Honda ST1100, 1999 Ford F250, 2006 Toyota Solara
Thu Aug 06, 2015 4:50 pm
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2014 10:31 am
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Location: Ligonier, PA
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Looks great! The cooler looks so similar to my Cool Shirt version that I'm guessing they're actually the same unit. The breakaway connectors are a good idea. I might put those on mine - at the driver's end.

Thanks for posting the parts list!

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Joe Teplitz - Western PA
Datsun 510


Thu Aug 06, 2015 9:37 pm
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One final item to take care of - how to route the hoses from the Cool Shirt (inside one's race suit) out to connect to the hoses from the cooling unit. The DIY instructions advise to either raise the bottom of the zipper (if you have one of those zippers that allow the bottom to go up) or cut a slit in the pocket area and feed the hoses out there.

What I did was to cut a small hole in the pocket area after confirming that hoses in this area would not interfere with the seat belts. Then I took a spare Nomex sock, cut off the foot part, folded the leg part over to make a double layer tube and stitched that to the suit (with Nomex thread) such that ~ 2" is inside the suit and ~ 2" is inside the pocket. My thinking is that this will help maintain the 3-layer suit's integrity while giving the hoses a place to pass through.

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Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

1961 MGA, 1981 Alfa Romeo GTV6, 1984 Alfa Romeo Spider,
1991 Honda ST1100, 1999 Ford F250, 2006 Toyota Solara


Tue Aug 11, 2015 10:27 pm
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For the ice I use quart size yogurt containers in which to freeze water. They last much longer than Ice cubes.

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Mack


Sun Aug 16, 2015 10:03 pm
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I can report the cooling system worked great at the Palmer event. I don't know the ambient temps but it was HOT. With the cool shirt, waiting on the grid was almost pleasant!

I had made some blocks of ice using 1/2 gallon juice/milk containers. The ice lasted all day. The suggestion to use quart size yogurt containers also sounds good.

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Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

1961 MGA, 1981 Alfa Romeo GTV6, 1984 Alfa Romeo Spider,
1991 Honda ST1100, 1999 Ford F250, 2006 Toyota Solara


Wed Aug 19, 2015 10:56 am
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Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 12:05 pm
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Eric:

I'll bet you were glad to have it at Whiskey Hill. I like your "pump protector". Nicely done.

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Mack


Fri Aug 21, 2015 5:53 pm
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