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 1275 Engine Refresh 
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Joined: Tue Dec 10, 2013 11:32 pm
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John:
I wasn't able to borrow a ball hone (dingle berry hone), so I used a straight, 3-stone glaze breaker hone.

It has 220 grit stones in it. I only ran it up and down about a dozen times in each cylinder. Then washed the cylinders and block out with kerosene followed by lots of compressed air.

I put the head together this morning (new valves and springs). I decided to fit new valve stem seals on the intake valves this time, but I'm always 50/50 on whether this is a good idea or not.

I'm in the middle of fitting the last two pistons right now.

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Tue Mar 25, 2014 3:25 pm
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New inlet guide seals are always a good idea when refreshing your engine. Just a small amount of oil in the incoming charge will lower the effective octane rating. Exhaust seals are optional. Some run without ---> ---> ---> smoky exhaust. I use older, used valve guide seals with the circular spring removed to allow more lube to the exhaust valve stems which need it because of the extra heat. Not as much lube as with no seals, which leads to a big carbon build up on the back of the valve, but more than with a new, competent seal.

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Mack


Wed Mar 26, 2014 2:09 pm
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Hi again Nial,

I was always taught to wash the bores thoroughly with soapy water, after honing -- and that's what I've always done. The experts that I learned from all said that's the best way to get all the honing grit out of the cast iron cylinder walls. Supposedly, any petroleum-based fluid doesn't flush the grit as well as water.

At first I was a little skeptical and concerned that this would cause instant rusting of the bores -- but it doesn't (well of course you have to dry them immediately! but then no problems).

It's a bit of a PITA, I still haven't rigged up a very stable mount for a big tub underneath my engine stand, so the water makes a mess -- sometimes I just roll it outside in the driveway, as long as it's not a windy or dusty day. One of these days I will figure out how to mount one of those big black tubs on the engine stand (and then I'll have to figure out how to empty it).

Just another one of those minor headaches you face when building a race engine ... it really is time-consuming, no wonder pro shops charge so much!

Mark Palmer


Wed Mar 26, 2014 7:25 pm
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Funny you should say that Mark.

After, I wash the engine down inside with kero, I spray it out with my pressure washer, then blew out with compressed air (again) and sprayed liberally with WD-40 right away.
I squirt the wrist pins and cam lobes with lots of motor oil before fitting the oil pan.
When the engine is fully assembled, I crank it without spark plugs until the oil pressure comes up.

I hate to admit the part about using the pressure washer. Most people are appalled by it. ;)

I don't have a tub to contain the spray so I put an old sheet and cardboard under the engine when I use the pressure washer (and then dispose of them afterwards). It's messy but I think the interior of the engine comes out pretty clean.

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Thu Mar 27, 2014 11:05 am
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I too use soapy water. I like the idea of a pressure washer. :-) Then like you said, lots of compressed air and WD40, especially in the oil galleries. After all, the WD stands for "water displacement".

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Mack


Thu Mar 27, 2014 2:51 pm
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I wash with soap and water and wipe with rag using brake cleaner then wipe very light with WD40 and wipe dry then I apply Quick Seal.If the cylinder is clean it will turn a greenish tint.If the powder turns black or silverish color it is still dirty. Dave


Fri Mar 28, 2014 9:54 am
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David;

What is Quick Seal? Tell us about it.

Mack

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Mack


Fri Mar 28, 2014 11:05 am
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Mack, Quick Seal is a dry assembly lube made by Total Seal.They say the benefits are 1-Quicker ring seating 2-longer ring life 3-better leak-downs. I like that it also tells you if the cross hatch is clean ,the color green tint is good black or silver is bad.It comes in a little jar and a little goes along way.It is real hard to wash off of hands (ask Rob)I make him do it,what are sons for? Dave


Fri Mar 28, 2014 12:42 pm
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Dave:

Here is the stuff. It is called "Quickseat" and made by Total Seal. Never heard of it.

http://www.totalseal.com/Tools.aspx

http://www.jegs.com/p/Total-Seal/Total-Seal-Quickseat-Dry-Film-Powder/750299/10002/-1

So do you use any kind of assembly lube with it or just the dry film powder?

Here is a little more info http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Quick-Seat-Piston-Ring-Assembly-Lubricant-p/quickseat.htm

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Mack


Fri Mar 28, 2014 4:58 pm
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Mack, I lube the ring grooves lightly with oil and use the QuickSeat on the bores.
Dave


Sat Mar 29, 2014 9:53 am
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